How to do this without blown highlights?

How to do this without blown highlights? NOT MY PHOTO So, I don't really want to do HDR bracketing photo merging if I can avoid, I will if I have to, but I wanna get it right in camera if possible. So far it's either blown out highlight or basically black apart from the sky. I've seen people nail it on full auto and phones and I'm starting to feel shame for my attempts at light fingers...

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