Favourite beautiful historic neighbourhoods/villages that are still functioning living spaces and not overrun with tourist shops selling tat?

Favourite beautiful historic neighbourhoods/villages that are still functioning living spaces and not overrun with tourist shops selling tat? I'm sure you've all experienced it, whether Gion in Kyoto or the Royal Mile in Edinburgh - most of the most-stunning, historic and well-preserved places have since priced out the people that used to live there and are overrun with expensive jewellery stores, overpriced ice-cream, and fridge magnet vendors. I get why it happens, but it's a real b...

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